Actor Nana recently stepped out in a khaki-brown suede jacket worn loose over a red-and-white striped T-shirt and denim shorts. The look, which she shared on social media, drew attention for its collar, which rose to wrap around her neck.
The jacket, a utility suede piece from young contemporary label E.B.M, pairs a stand collar with paneled seams and patch pockets for a structured silhouette.
That collar detail has become the dividing line for this season's outerwear. Whether in leather, suede or cotton, jackets and coats that climb up the neck are selling out.
The shape first gained traction on international runways last fall, when designers swapped conventional collars and lapels for necklines that rose nearly to the chin. Known as the funnel neck, it turned a functional feature into the silhouette's focal point. Zipped to the top, it frames the face. Left open, it falls into a looser, more casual shape.
Interest has grown quickly. On Musinsa, searches for "high-neck leather jacket" rose 1,071 percent year-on-year from Sept. 1-21. On 29CM, they jumped 3,295 percent over the same period.
Much of the momentum centers on leather jackets, which have become everyday wear for women in their 20s and 30s. The classic biker jacket, with its wide lapels and off-center zipper, has given way to oversized, high-neck versions. A high collar can be worn up or folded down, and the softer shape pairs easily with jeans, slacks or a skirt. Synthetic leather, cheaper than the genuine article, has further widened the options.
Brands are moving to meet demand. At women's brand Mixxo, sales of faux leather jackets rose 170 percent on-year from Sept. 1-22, and its flagship high-neck faux leather jacket, designed to be worn closed or with the collar spread open, sold through its initial stock. The store is now taking preorders for its first restock.
VOV put its synthetic leather high-neck jacket into additional production in early September, and 8seconds' padded high-neck leather quilted blouson is sold out on SSF Shop.
The trend extends to trench coats, which have returned as part of a broader turn toward clean silhouettes and restraint with a hint of femininity, referred to by Korean shoppers as the “grown woman” style. On fashion platform Ably, searches for high-neck trench coats rose 2,067 percent year-on-year in September.
The style spans a wide range of price points. Global high-street labels such as Zara, Aritzia and Massimo Dutti carry high-neck jackets and trench coats, while at the luxury end, Loewe offers a short parka for $2,600 and Phoebe Philo a cotton-and-silk twill trench coat for $3,900.
"Outerwear that keeps the common feature of a collar wrapped high around the neck while varying color, material and length is proving very popular. With the cold arriving earlier than usual and boosting real demand for high-neck styles, we expect the popularity to continue into winter," an industry official said.
yoohong@heraldcorp.com